Kimchi mandu (김치만두) are Korean dumplings filled with fermented kimchi, meat, tofu, and vegetables. Every bite has something going on: the kimchi brings a pleasantly sour, spicy kick, the pork adds richness, and the tofu keeps the filling tender. Sweet potato starch noodles and crunchy bean sprouts give the inside a lovely mixture of textures.

These dumplings are especially good with well-fermented kimchi that's had a little time to develop its tang. You don't need a fresh batch of kimchi for this recipe; the jar that's been sitting in your refrigerator for a few weeks is often exactly what you want. Just chop it finely and squeeze out the excess liquid so your wrappers don't turn soggy.

I like making a generous batch because folding dumplings is one of those kitchen jobs that's much more enjoyable when you have a whole tray to show for it. You can steam them for soft, chewy wrappers or pan-fry them until the bottoms are crisp and golden. Serve them with a simple soy-vinegar dipping sauce, and freeze the extras for another day.