These zucchini pancakes, known as hobak buchim (호박부침), are one of those Korean dishes that make a humble zucchini feel like a proper meal. The zucchini stays tender and lightly sweet, while the thin batter fries into golden, crisp edges.

The trick is getting the moisture right. Zucchini releases a surprising amount of water, so salting it briefly and squeezing it well gives you pancakes that hold together instead of turning soft and floppy in the skillet.

I like making several small pancakes rather than one thick one. They cook quickly, get more crispy edges, and are especially good hot from the pan with a little soy-vinegar dipping sauce.