A good potato pancake should make a little noise when you bite into it. The edges turn deeply golden and crisp, while the middle stays tender and savory with plenty of potato flavor and a gentle sweetness from the onion.

The trick isn't complicated, but it matters: get as much water as possible out of the grated potatoes and onions before mixing the batter. Too much moisture is what turns a promising pancake soft and greasy instead of crisp.

I like these best straight from the skillet, with cool sour cream alongside. Applesauce gives you that classic sweet-and-savory contrast, too.